Review Oni Denim ONI-626-LT17
Brand: Oni Denim
Product name: Oni-626-LT17
Materials: 17 oz. unsanforized low tension Japanese selvedge denim.
Made in: Japan
When talking about special denim brands, Oni Denim is for sure a brand to mention. There isn’t that much information available about the brand in general, the production and the fabrics. The owner, who goes by the name of Oishi-san, barely gives interviews because the jeans should do the talking themselves. What we do know is that Oni Denim is a one-man show. Mr. Oishi is the man who develops the fabrics and he is the only person that operates the shuttle loom that makes the special Oni Fabrics.
Oni Denim doesn’t have a standard collection. Mr. Oishi only produces the jeans every now and then, and he produces just what he feels like. This means that there will be no restocks or things like that, therefore basically every Oni jeans is a limited edition. This means that if you want a specific model / fabric you must be very fast.
The fabric of Oni belongs to the best ones in Japan and is characterized by its low tension and the irregular and slubby weave.
The ONI-626-LT17 is a super tight tapered slim fit with a low rise. Compared to most Japanese denim brands, this is a very contemporary fit. The 626 is stitched together with a yellow and orange contrasting thread. The top of the coin pocket is stitch with a red thread and the inseam is closed with an overlocking stitch. The construction is strengthened with copper Universal rivets and the back pockets are fortified with hidden rivets.
At first sight Oni kept their jeans classic and clean. There are not that many flashy details to mention. When we took a closer look, the following details stood out; The 626 is dyed with genuine indigo, stitched with 100% cotton thread and strengthened with copper rivets. The buttons are made out of iron and the coin pockets include a hidden pink selvedge ID. The back pockets display the signature Oni stitching, sewn with a yellow thread. The leather patch is made from deer skin and displays the Oni logo and some information about the jeans.
The weaving of the fabric as well as the manufactory of the jeans took place in Japan. In the attempt to create the unique rough and slubby fabric as only Oni can produce, fabric looms were literally destroyed. Solely one Shuttle loom was capable to create the typical low tension Oni fabric. The fabric of all Oni’s is created on this specific loom only. Mr. Oishi is the only person who is capable to operate and fix this machine.
This jeans is made out of 17 oz. unsanforized low tension Japanese selvedge denim and dyed in 100% indigo. The fabric is woven from long staple yarns, which ensures durability and comfort. Because the fabric is woven under a low tension, it is very irregular and slubby. This 626 is made from unsanforized denim which means that the jeans will shrink around 6% – 8% during its first wash.
The Oni-626-LT17 is an unsanforized jeans, which means that you have to soak the jeans before you start wearing it. During this first soak the jeans will shrink, so it’s very important to be aware of this when you place the order. If you don’t soak the jeans before you start wearing it, you’ll damage the fabric and the trouble of not fitting, and misplaced fades, will start after its first wash.
After its first soak, you can rock this jeans just like every other jeans. Our advice is to only wash when necessary. When the wash cannot wait any longer, we advise a hand wash for minimal damage to the fabric. We do not encourage to not wash the jeans at all. Washing it once in a while will help recover the worn in fibres, giving your pair of jeans a longer lifespan.
There is not that much information about Oni Denim in general, the fabric and the production process. Actually, everything around Oni is quite mysterious. There is no official website and there are almost no interviews with the owner. It was this big mysterious atmosphere to it that grabbed our attention and convinced us to review Oni Denim.
The ONI-626-LT17 is a super tight tapered slim fit jeans with a low rise. As you can see on the photos the jeans connects perfectly to the legs. For me, this is the perfect fit, the tighter, the better, but we know.. this is personal. The 17 oz. low tension fabric is incredible, the fabric is so rough and slubby. The first time I put this jeans on it was really hard, but after a couple of hours it became more comfortable. It’s because of the low tension weave that the fabric is very rough and slubby, but still comfortable.
The ONI-626-LT17 really surprised us. For a price of €189 it’s hard to find a more special jeans. The story of the brand, the construction of the jeans and the fabric are extraordinary.