By Robin | August 15, 2019

Tanuki continues their campaign with the IDJKT3 ID x ID Denim Jacket

It isn’t the first time we have written a piece on Tanuki here on Robin Denim. We have previously reviewed the Indigo x Indigo Tapered and the NS1 Natural Indigo. The brand itself was formed by experienced denim craftsmen and is known for extraordinary fabrics and surgical attention to detail. Their type III denim jacket, the IDJKT3 IDxID, isn’t their latest release but it certainly deserves some time in the spotlight.

Back in 2015, Tanuki released their first pair of jeans in an aggressive tapered cut. It was quite a debut in a fairly conservative denim market, especially for a Japanese brand. But it turned out well and only four years later, Tanuki is stocked by most major (online) denim stores worldwide and has become a highly sought-after brand amongst denim heads.

With the IDJKT3 ID x ID jacket, Tanuki’s denim masters have added another great piece to their already impressive indigo collection. Tanuki have a focus on translating the heritage of Japanese denim into modern-day silhouettes and with the double indigo fabric as well as other stand-out details, the brand continue to fulfill this philosophy.


TanukiPhoto courtesy of Hans Jellema.


The Fabric

As we have come to expect, the fabrics from Tanuki are impressive and unrivalled. The 15 oz. ID x ID indigo is no exception to the rule and offers the brand’s textbook slubby texture and fading potential. The fabric is referred to as ‘double indigo’, meaning that both the warp and weft are rope dyed with indigo which creates an intense deep blue colour. The fabric is made of 100% Texas cotton with a medium staple length and features a very irregular surface and a rough hand feel. The fabric has been woven using a low-tension technique which makes the fabric much more breathable and comfortable than a tighter woven fabric. After the weaving stage, the fabric isn’t sanforized, meaning that it will shrink after being washed for the first time. But, because un-sanforized fabrics can scare some customers, Tanuki have subjected the jackets to a garment wash in order to eliminate any doubts. All these processes lead to a garment which has plenty of texture and guarantees an interesting denim evolution. Wearing the jacket will result in incredible high-contract fades which you can expect to see quickly.


TanukiPhoto courtesy of Hans Jellema.


The Fit 

The IDJKT3 is Tanuki’s take on the iconic Type III Trucker Jacket. The jacket has been modified by adding extra length and hand pockets for a more modern silhouette with extra comfort. The jacket has a slim appearance while giving enough room on the critical like the chest, waist, and arms. The jacket also features many of Tanuki’s signatures, including; a hand stained deer skin leather patch, matt black branded hardware, ton-sur-ton stitches, a bright blue / white selvedge ID and the ‘Ni’ logo on the right shoulder, which represents both tradition and change in Japanese culture.


The Details

  • 15 oz. unsanforized indigo x indigo selvedge denim
  • Un-sanforized garment washed selvedge denim
  • 100% Texas cotton
  • Modified Type III denim styling
  • ‘Ni’ logo on the right shoulder
  • Hand pockets
  • Blue & white selvedge ID
  • Matt black branded hardware
  • Hand stained deerskin leather patch
  • Made in Japan

The IDJKT3 ID x ID is produced in limited quantities and is available via the Tanuki website for €290 with free worldwide shipping. With an array of great details and considered construction, this is a jacket which stands out in the denim crowd.


Photo courtesy of Hans Jellema.

TanukiPhoto courtesy of Hans Jellema.