A Closer Look at FULLCOUNT’s 15.5 oz. 1110xx
Brand: FULLCOUNT & Co.
Product name: 1110xx
Fit: Tapered fit
Materials: 15.5 oz. unsanforized denim – one washed
Made in: Okayama, Japan
Price: €260 – Fullcount’s international webstore
The Facts
Hailing from Osaka, FULLCOUNT & Co. is a founding member of the famed ‘Osaka 5’ and started to make jeans in 1992. The rich history of the brand includes many milestones for the denim industry more generally too, such as the brand pioneering the use of Zimbabwean cotton in the production of selvedge denim. Now, almost three decades after Fullcount was established, we can only conclude that the brand is truly one of the founding fathers of Japanese denim, who have played an integral role in elevating the fabric to new heights.
Owner and Head of Design at Fullcount, Mikiharu Tsujita, started the brand from a deep love for his Levi’s jeans. Together with Hidehiko Yamane, Kenichi and Kenji Shiotani, they formed Evis jeans in 1991. However, a difference in philosophy led the denim legends on divergent paths. Yamane would go on to create Evisu, with the Shiotani brothers founding Warehouse & Co. Tsujita founded Fullcount & Co. with just one key principle – creating a jean that feels so good you don’t want to take them off.
Tsujita’s intentions for the quality, comfort and wear characteristics of Fullcount jeans led him to the introduction of Zimbabwean cotton – at the time this was somewhat revolutionary and would prove to be a game changer in high quality selvedge denim. The long staple cotton is, according to Mr Tsujita, very similar to the 1940’s American cotton, and produces a world famous soft yet sturdy hand. Woven on original 1960’s shuttle looms, Fullcount quickly became known for producing some of the finest denim fabrics in the world.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
The Fit
The 1110xx is based on Fullcount’s original tapered fit, with some slight tweaks over the years (including a higher rise and more tapered leg opening). According to the brand, it is the most modern silhouette in the collection. It has a high rise and a roomy top-block, but with emphasis on the taper. The jeans are made with a curved waistband in order to offer a more natural fit on the body. The thighs offer ample room and the silhouette tapers down through the leg. Offering a very reliable and comfortable contemporary fit, the 1110xx is in high demand in the Japanese and overseas markets.
The Manufacturing
While the brand is located in Osaka, the manufacturing of the jeans takes place in Okayama, approximately 175 kilometers west from Osaka. The manufacturing is done by a separate company, who work exclusively for Fullcount & Co.
Today the Kojima area is known for its specialized denim production, but that wasn’t the case when Fullcount was founded in 1992. At the same time the brand was established, Mr. Tsujita used to travel to Kojima at least once a week, looking for a reliable manufacturer for his collection. He was looking for a company who could understand his vision on denim and was able to meet his high standard of quality. As the industry was in its infancy, it took Mr. Tsujita some time to transfer his enthusiasm and to gather a group of people who could help him to realize his dream. Eventually, he was able to put together a group of skilled artisans who would be able to take of production for all Fullcount garments. Even since the first pair of Fullcount jeans were made, the brand is still loyal to the factory and team that made it happen.
Now, almost 30 years later, the factory is supported by approximately 15 super skilled artisans who all have a valued relationship with Fullcount. They continue to ensure the same high quality as thirty years ago but are constantly looking to improve and enhance processes where possible. The brand has never considered moving production to another factory or outsourcing the work, as the level of trust and respect developed over the years could not be matched elsewhere.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
The Fabric
The 1110xx is crafted from Fullcount’s original selvedge denim and weighs in at 15.5 oz. per square yard. The fabric is woven using the same techniques as for the 13.7 oz. denim, resulting in a thick but comfortable fabric. Woven from long-staple Zimbabwe cotton and rinsed in their unsanforized state to remove shrinkage, this is a very carefully considered denim. According to the brand, the fabric will soften after a few weeks of wear, giving a much more comfort than other 14-15 oz. fabrics on the market. It has excellent water absorption and quick-dry properties, and due to the composition of the fabric it can be worn through all seasons.
The fabric has been dyed using a specially developed dark indigo in order to achieve unique fades. Instead of fading to white, the fabric will evolve into a light blue gradation which will be accentuated on the whiskers and honeycombs. The fabric is woven on a vintage shuttle loom at Shinya Mills in Ibara, Oyakama. The mill currently has 70 shuttle looms up and running, 4 of which are exclusively used by Fullcount. The looms were actually used by Levi’s in the 1960’s and a few decades later, the mill also produced fabric for Cone Mills.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
The Details
The 1110xx is clearly one of Fullcount’s showpieces and although it has a clean and minimal appearance, it also offers a whole host of signature denim details. It features copper rivets throughout (including hidden back pocket rivets), a vegetable tanned goatskin leather back patch, raised belt loops, 100% cotton threads and has silver coated copper buttons at the fly. The back pockets don’t feature an arc – an intentional move by the brand – giving them a very clean and contemporary look. Here’s a breakdown of the details;
- Tapered fit
- High rise
- 100% Zimbabwe cotton
- Japanese 15.5 oz. pink selvedge denim
- Button-fly
- Dark indigo dyed
- Silver coated copper buttons
- Hidden copper rivets
- Raised belt loops
- Vegetable tanned goatskin leather patch
- One washed finish
- Made in Okayama, Japan
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
Our Thoughts
FULLCOUNT is a brand that appealed to our imagination ever since we started our love affair with denim. Their rich history and integral part in the development of the Japanese denim industry deserves nothing but respect as far as we’re concerned. We have always come to expect nothing but the best from the brand and are never disappointed with their denim offering.
The jeans are made from top-notch materials and are constructed following traditional Japanese manufacturing processes, utilizing some rare and unique machinery. Thirty years of high-end denim manufacturing is clearly visible in the end-product; the jeans feel solid and durable, with a surgical attention to detail. The 1110xx has a clean appearance, well-balanced fit and a fabric we can only love. From the moment you touch the fabric, you’re able to understand the value of Zimbabwe cotton. For this review we received the one-wash version, and although the fabric is 15.5 oz. with an initially rough texture, it is comfortable and breathable from the beginning. It’s worth nothing that in Japan the majority of jeans are offered in a rinsed-state to remove shrinkage and the doubt that comes with it!
Overall the 1110xx is a fantastic pair of jeans which will no doubt live up to the expectations of this seasoned denim brand which is steeped in indigo folklore. They promise to offer fine fades alongside a contemporary fit and functional fabric. They are available at FULLCOUNT.co for €260.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.
Share
Tweet
