By Robin | December 07, 2021

Realign’s 16 oz. Structure Selvedge Unraveled 

With the launch of Realign Denim in August 2021, a long-cherished dream came true. After working in the denim industry for over 7 years, and through carefully planning, designing and developing the brand, we managed to transform our passion for denim into a single pair of jeans. Realign’s manufacturing is entirely accommodated in and around Kojima in Okayama  prefecture – even all hardware is made in Japan – and as a result we have firmly anchored our philosophy and beliefs in the heritage of Japanese denim. By surrounding ourselves with renowned manufacturers from the Japanese denim industry, we made sure to make Realign jeans the highest quality they could be.

For the first release, we have carefully selected a ‘Structure Selvedge’ as our weapon of  (denim) choice. Having Collect Mills as our fabric partner gives us endless possibilities when it comes to fabric selection, with great variety in terms of cotton, weave, color and weight. But, as soon as we started to think about our first Realign collection, we knew that we  wanted to use the Structure Selvedge as it is such an exciting and characterful fabric. Below, you’ll find more information on why we chose this denim and the process behind its manufacture.




How Structure Selvedge is Made  

Structure Selvedge is a product of renowned denim makers Collect Mills and is woven in house in Kojima, Okayama Prefecture. The name ‘Structure Selvedge’ derives from the structured texture and framework of the fabric, with the fabric idea conceived by the mill itself  which lends to its exclusivity and uniqueness.

The yarns are spun from a blend of American and Australian cotton, with the warp yarns being rope-dyed in indigo. Rope dyeing is considered to be one of the best methods for dyeing yarns and gives the fabric a fantastic fading potential. After dyeing, the fabric is woven on antique shuttle looms – the traditional way of making denim – which results in a beautiful red-line selvedge. Structure Selvedge is woven in a right hand twill construction and under a low tension, making the fabric mold around the legs comfortably despite its weight after some break-in time.


RealignPhoto courtesy of Koen Kuik.


Weight and Characteristics  

Structure Selvedge is weighted at 16 oz. per square yard, which can be categorized as a mid-to-heavyweight fabric. The fabric may feel rigid and tough during the first few weeks but it will soon soften with wear, especially due to the low-tension weave. The fabric will then begin to mold to your body shape, resulting in a clean and contemporary silhouette with a characterful aesthetic as the fabric fades. The irregularity and ‘slub’ of the fabric is unlike any other denim we’ve seen and combined with the deep blue hue of the indigo, results in a truly unique pair of jeans.


RealignPhoto courtesy of Koen Kuik.


Fade Potential 

Although our Structure Selvedge has an intense and beautiful deep blue color prior to it being worn, the fabric will soon come alive with wear. It provides consistent overall wear and fading, with a textbook Japanese look and feel. If you’re looking to achieve high contrast fades, we would advise postponing the first wash for 6-12 months if possible. However, washing more frequently will achieve a ‘vintage’ aesthetic with a more uniform fade and colour. Below you can see a sample of the denim which has been worn consistently for 10 months without a single wash.

The Realign RLGN-R 16 oz. structure selvedge is limited to only 100 pairs and comes at a price of €300 including free worldwide shipping. The first release of Realign introduces some signature details of the brand, as well as carrying unique features which are limited to the first collection. This includes a debossed indigo dyed deerskin leather patch with a gold printed Realign logo.

Head over to Realign Denim for more information about the jeans or to place an order for an exclusive pair of jeans made of the incredibly rich and textured structure selvedge denim fabric.


Structure selvedge - 10 months whiskersStructure selvedge - 10 months Photo courtesy of Koen Kuik.