CBL introduces Democracy of Stretch at Kingpins Amsterdam, 2024

With events held in key denim hubs worldwide, Kingpins has become one of the most respected denim trade shows today. Show after show, it continues to bring together renowned manufacturers with denim professionals across the entire supply chain, fueling the momentum of innovation in the denim industry. On October 23rd and 24th, Kingpins made its way to Sugarcity, Amsterdam, for a very special occasion—the celebration of its 10th anniversary! 

Attending the Amsterdam edition of Kingpins has become a must for us, as it’s the perfect place to explore the latest innovations and developments in the denim world. Besides reconnecting with familiar faces we’ve met over the years, each show offers an opportunity to meet new denim enthusiasts, professionals, and manufacturers who share the same love and passion for denim. 

At the last event, we had the chance to meet the dedicated team behind CBL, Pakistan’s first vertically integrated denim facility, which provides clothing for over 10 million people each year! Recognizing its significant role in the global denim industry, CBL is committed to embracing the responsibilities that come with it, continuously innovating and evolving their denim production methods.

After our meeting with CBL and the interesting discussions about denim, we decided to reach out to learn more about their latest “Democracy of Stretch” innovation. We sent a Q&A to You Nguyen, Brand and Product Officer at CBL, and Imran Tanveer, Assistant Vice President of Research & Development at CBL, which you can read below. 

Robin: Dear You, could you please start by introducing CBL, and shed some light on your partnership with the company?

You: I relied on CBL as a strategic denim supplier during my time at Levi’s and C&A Europe. The company is known for its authentic denim craftsmanship, commitment to sustainability, and strong social and ethical values. CBL’s unique vertical setup in Pakistan—from spinning to sewing and washing on one sustainable campus—has always impressed me.

Since partnering with CBL, I’ve come to appreciate their innovative thinking even more; from product design to sustainable solutions. I’ve joined the team to help transform CBL from a trusted supplier into a world-class denim brand!

This transformation goes beyond creating exceptional products; it’s about building a brand that stays true to its values, remains consumer-focused, and stands out in the market while resonating with both the consumers and customers. At the end of the day, it’s about creating added value as a strategic partner for both.

Robin: How do you envision the future of denim, particularly in relation to stretch denim innovations?

You: The future of denim is one where comfort, sustainability, and individuality intersect. Stretch denim will no longer be confined to its traditional role as a comfort fabric. Instead, it will become a medium for expressing identity, inclusivity, and responsibility. Innovations in fabric technology, like our Invisible Stretch and the use of X4zol-J™ fiber, are paving the way for denim that combines the authenticity of rigid fabrics with the flexibility of stretch. This evolution will allow denim to cater to a wide range of styles and body types without sacrificing either form or function. I see stretch denim becoming even more adaptable, offering new possibilities for design and performance while maintaining an unwavering commitment to sustainability.

Robin: At Kingpins Amsterdam, CBL introduced the concept of Democracy of Stretch. Could you elaborate on the idea and walk us through the rationale behind the concept? 

You: Democracy of Stretch is about challenging traditional notions of stretch denim. Historically, stretch denim has been tied to women’s skinny jeans, but we’re expanding the scope to embrace everyone—across gender and style preferences. This concept celebrates versatility and freedom, offering options for every fit, from slim to baggy, structured to fluid. The idea is to democratize stretch denim by making it a canvas for self- expression, unbound by conventional norms. Whether you’re looking for style, comfort, or a blend of both, Democracy of Stretch offers denim that adapts to you, not the other way around.

The rationale behind this concept is to cater to a diverse consumer base that values authenticity, innovation, and sustainability in their wardrobe. We want to push the boundaries of what stretch denim can do, making it not just a functional fabric, but a platform for creativity and personal expression.

Robin: Can you explain how the concept of Democracy of Stretch plays out in the context of current trends in the denim landscape? And has CBL introduced any innovations within the Democracy of Stretch? 

You: Democracy of Stretch taps directly into current trends of inclusivity, sustainability, and authenticity in the denim world. As consumers move away from rigid expectations of style and fit, there’s an increasing demand for fabrics that allow for individuality, whether through oversized baggy jeans, slim fits, or anything in between. Our approach aligns with these shifts, offering stretch denim that transcends gender and body type, making it accessible and relevant for all.

CBL has introduced two key innovations within this concept. First is our Invisible Stretch, a groundbreaking advancement that integrates rigid and stretch fabrics seamlessly. This innovation provides the classic look of rigid denim with the comfort and flexibility of stretch, without compromising on style or authenticity. Second, we’ve pioneered the use of X4zol-J™ fiber, which enhances stretch durability and comfort while improving environmental impact. By incorporating this fiber into spun yarn form, we maintain the visual appeal of denim while delivering superior stretch performance and sustainability. These innovations represent the future of stretch denim—where form, function, and responsibility converge.

Thank you, You Nguyen, for sharing your vision on the future of denim and the reasons behind CBL’s development of the Democracy of Stretch. In the next section of the Q&A, Imran Tanveer will provide more in-depth information about the two key innovations within this concept: “Invisible Stretch” and X4zol-J™

Robin: Dear Imran, as someone who generally prefers rigid fabrics, the term ‘Invisible Stretch’ really piqued my interest. Could you elaborate what this means and highlight its benefits? 

Imran: It is safe to say that the “Invisible Stretch” denim concept revolutionizes the traditional denim experience by merging authenticity with comfort. This innovative design especially caters to those individuals who desire the classic aesthetic of rigid denim while enjoying the flexibility and ease of movement offered by stretch denim. Unlike traditional stretch denim, where the elasticity is more obvious and can sometimes compromise the classic, structured appearance, Invisible Stretch seamlessly integrates stretch fabric into specific areas to enhance comfort without altering the aesthetic.

The front panel of the jeans retains its rigid fabric, maintaining the timeless, structured look people appreciate in vintage denim, while the back panel utilizes stretch fabric to provide flexibility, particularly in high-movement areas such as the thigh. This blend delivers the best of both worlds: classic style coupled with modern comfort.

The benefits of Invisible Stretch are multifaceted: Invisible Stretch preserves the authentic look of traditional denim, ensuring an uncompromised aesthetic experience. It also provides enhanced comfort through targeted flexibility, ensuring ease of movement without sacrificing structure. Moreover, the discrete integration of stretch fabric ensures an unnoticeable elasticity, making it ideal for those who prefer rigid denim with added comfort.

Ultimately, Invisible Stretch offers unparalleled versatility, suitable for all-day wear and effortlessly bridging fashion and functionality for both casual and polished outfits.

Robin: Your other innovation, which is X4zol-J fiber is spun yarn form, is quite a technical term. Could you break down the meaning and characteristics of this fiber in more accessible terms and elaborate the mechanics of your innovation? 

Imran: X4zol-J™ is a revolutionary fiber that elevates denim by offering superior stretch, comfort, and sustainability. It’s made from a thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) elastomeric monofilament, which sets it apart from traditional elastane. Unlike conventional spandex, which often leads to noticeable stretch and recovery limitations, X4zol-J delivers a unique combination of stretch and resilience, without compromising the aesthetics of denim. Newness in X4zol-J™ offered by CBL:

Initially, X4zol-J was only compatible with Filament Polyester/Polyamide yarns, which would limit its ability to achieve the desired denim look and feel.

At CBL, we have innovated by introducing X4zol-J in spun yarn form, which retains the traditional denim aesthetics while offering the same high-compression stretch as the filament versions. This breakthrough enables maximum elongation with minimal force and enhances sustainability.

Sustainable Attributes & Benefits of X4zol-J™:

• Solvent-Free Extrusion Process: Environmentally friendly production process.
• Energy Efficiency: The production of X4zol-J™ requires less energy compared to conventional stretch fibers.
• Comfortable Compression: The fiber provides a gentle yet supportive compression that feels natural on the body.
• Low-Resistance Stretch: Unlike spandex, which has a sharp increase in resistance after a certain point of stretch, X4zol-J™ has a consistent stretch profile, offering smoother elongation and better comfort.
• Durability: The fiber traces a “J-shaped” stress/strain curve, ensuring that it stretches consistently and comfortably without the rapid resistance buildup seen in other fibers.

Robin: In what ways does the concept of Democracy of Stretch, particularly the introduction of Invisible Stretch and the X4zol-J fiber in spun yarn, align with CBL’s commitment to quality, innovation, and sustainability? 

Imran: The Democracy of Stretch perfectly aligns with CBL’s values by delivering high- quality, innovative, and sustainable solutions.

• Invisible Stretch provides the authentic, rigid denim look with hidden comfort, offering the style and durability consumers expect from CBL’s high standards of quality.
• X4zol-J™ fiber introduces cutting-edge stretch technology, enhancing both comfort and flexibility, pushing forward CBL’s innovative edge.
  
• Both innovations incorporate sustainable practices — from energy-efficient production methods to long-lasting wearability — reinforcing CBL’s commitment to producing environmentally responsible products without compromising on their performance.

In essence, these developments reflect CBL’s dedication to delivering timeless products that meet modern demands.

Robin: Dear You and Imran, what concluding insights would you like to share? 

You & Imran: Denim is a story of constant innovation—a material that evolves with time, driven by design, craftsmanship, technology, and sustainability. With Democracy of Stretch, we are redefining what stretch denim can be. We’ve proven that you never have to compromise on style, comfort, or conscience—our innovations ensure that all three come together seamlessly. Denim is unique in that it only becomes more beautiful as it ages, reflecting the journey and identity of its wearer.

At CBL, we’re not just creating products but transforming how denim is perceived and worn. Our shift from a trusted denim supplier to a global denim brand is underway, and this transformation is rooted in the same authenticity and innovation that has always defined us. As we continue this journey, we invite our customers and consumers to be a part of this evolution—embracing the future of denim without losing sight of its timeless essence.

Together, we’re shaping the next chapter in the denim world. 

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Thank you, You Nguyen and Imran Tanveer, for taking the time to introduce us to the “Democracy of Stretch.” To learn more about CBL, visit their website or follow them on Instagram.

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